Last Days in Shaoxing

I knew I would "run out of time" - there was so much to see and so much to do. There were two places in particular that I had to visit before my departure. I had often walked through Lu Xun Native Place. I'd discovered the little shops, and purchased the lovely sugar candy from the shops there, but I'd never been IN to the various places.

Lu Xun, was born in Shaoxing, and is considered to be one of the greatest Chinese writers of the 20th Century. In this place on either side of the main walking street are places of great interest in Lu Xun's life. His real name was Zhou Shujian. The Zhou family home is there - and the family garden.

Lu Xun's former residence and the small private school, which is known as Sanwei Shu Wu (Three Flavor Study), that Lu Xun attended are open to visitors.

Lu Xun Memorial Hall is there, and many other exhibits. Lu Xun apparently studied medicine in Japan, so he is also popular in Japan and Japanese tourists visit this tourist place.

I wished I had taken the time to visit this historic place before - certainly NOT the place to visit in a hurry as there is so much to see. I found that in most places there was adequate English to understand. In fact each room had Chinese and English explanations.

The reality is I think this is the most perfect exhibition of ancient China - the gardens, old kitchen, old water tanks, bedrooms, etc. I know that when I return to China - and I am sure I will - I will make my way back to Lu Xun NativePlace again. And take more time next time. I hope that I would have done more research BEFORE I return too.

LuXun

Lu Xun (Lou Shin) is famous in Shaoxing. He was a poet and writer during the early 1900's in the old city of Shaoxing, although he later went to live in Shanghai and died there where there is also a famous place to celebrate his life and work.

But he was born in Shaoxing and one of the most popular tourist places here is the village where he was born, and where he started is amazing career.

He was born in 1881 and spent his early years here in Shaoxing. In fact he went to school here and in one of the displays is his desk on which he carved "early" in Chinese characters to remind himself that he must be early to school.

His ancenstral home is preserved - which was recorded as being built in 1754 - and various other places here to record his amazing life. Lu Xun was his pen name, but that is he name that people are more familiar with - not his real name.

At weekends and public holidays Lu Xux walk is ful of Chinese visitors coming to see the place that they know well from the stories.

There is a big construction site at one end of the walk and here one is always accosted by tricycle (rickshaw) riders wanting to take you on a tour. The area is a bit messy due in part to the construction and I imagine when the construction is completed there will be a whole new vista here.

Along the walk are many stalls selling all sorts of items - fromthe antiques at the antique market at the entrance, and in the little alley ways, from the paper cut stalls, wine stalls where the famous Shaoxing Yellow Rice wine is sold in barrels, to all sorts of items connected with, or totally unconnected with Shaoxing and Lu Xun.

I have not as yet been in the halls and residences, but hope to do that before I leave here. I have a ticket which will give me free entry to them, so I had best use it before I go.

We found what appears to be a new, or at least newly renovated wine shop too - oh, how I wish I did not have a limit on my luggage back to Australia.

Golden Week

Chinese people celebrated National Day on October 1st. It is 59 years since the People's Republic of China was formed. They are looking forward to the celebration next year - 60 years. Should be a big one.

Oddly we see very little of the celebration of this National Day. When we have asked the students, they say that it is "celebrated" by being with family and shopping. Shopping is the favourite hobby of Chinese. They say it. Shopping is what friends do together.

I would like to see more traditional Chinese celebrations. Perhaps national dancing, music or similar, but if these sort of events are held, we don't know where they are. We don't see them. Maybe the many Chinese posters advertise these sort of events, but we can't read them. In any case, the students don't know. They say the celebrations are just visiting family and shopping.

Certainly the city shopping areas are busy. This is the time when many sales are held. It is the beginning of autumn so winter clothes are appearing in the fashion shops, and the stores are getting rid of summer stock at discount prices. The shopping frenzy that Chinese people seem to participate in is quite amazing. It is hard to register that much of the world think that China is more third world. Anything but in the affluent cities.

Our visit to Hangzhou on Monday reminded us that a holiday period is not a good time to travel around here. Even in Shaoxing the crowds have been hard to deal with. The busses are packed. Standing room only. No limit on the numbers on a bus here. Pack them in. Tightly. Hang on to your purse. Pickpockets find these times easy pickings.

Sue and I did go to Lu Xun Walk this week. Again it was packed. Lu Xun was one of China's best known modern writers. He wrote several books including Diary of a Madman and Medicine. He was born in Shaoxing, and left here to study abroad. He eventually returned to China, was forced to hide in Shanghai when the Kuomintang determined that his books were unsuitable. H eventually died in Shanghai.

Along Lu Xun Walk is his former residence, a memorial hall, and his former school. We did not go into the exhibits but strolled the street looking at the shops, and scenery. We found a restaurant along the walk and dined there. Much to the amusement of the passing traffic. We had a great meal there, and found the staff spoke English and the menu was in English too.

Later we went in a Shaoxing boat. A rather hilarious journey (overspriced) along a small stretch of canal, where I had to "duck" frequently as the boat went under low bridges and I might have been 'beheaded' if I had kept my head up. It made for a lot of laughs.

We bought a few things. Sue looks great in her new Shaoxing hat - the black heavy felt cap the older men wear during winter. Looks great on her.

We left the Lu Xun area, wandered around the old markets and eventually ended up at a restaurant called Brigadoon. Now the names of some places in China are completedly strange. I had never been before, but it was quite a nice little restaurant. English was spoken a little. We discovered they make great cocktails, so we will visit on another occasion.

Save the crowds it was a good day.